The perfect Parisian stroll: an illustrated walking guide to what’s new


Because Paris isn’t just a stuffy old monument of a city, here’s an illustrated write-up of some newer additions to spruce up your Summer visit, an excerpt from a piece I wrote and illustrated for Eurostar’s Metropolitan Magazine.


This Les Halles institution is now in the talented hands of Michelin-starred chef Jean-François Piège. It revisits la cuisine bourgeoise, cooked with fine-dining precision, while the brass fittings and banquettes have a sweetly 1930s feel. 9 Rue Vauvilliers, 75001 Paris


Easier than running away with the circus, this is a temple of 19th- and 20th- century paraphernalia from the shows and funfairs of La Belle Époque. Be prepared to be swept into a moving cabinet of curiosities with merry-go-rounds, 100-year-old bikes and other antique attractions. 53, av. Terroirs de France, 75012 Paris

Marche d'aligre

Reflecting the diversity of the 12e arrondisement, this bustling market seems untouched by time. Barter at the mini flea market and grab a quick bite at Le Baron Rouge, a packed-out, affordable wine bar with oysters at the weekend. Rue d’Aligre et, Place d’Aligre, 75012 Paris


The world’s biggest startup incubator in Halle Freyssinet is now home to Europe’s biggest restaurant, a 4500m² Italian joint from buzz-worthy restaurant group Big Mamma Group, with cool concerts Wednesday-Friday nights. 5 Parvis Alan Turing, 75013 Paris


The original High Line, the Promenade Plantée connects bustling Bastille to the Vincennes forest in a 4km green walk. The abandoned train track is now an urban mashup of floral and fauna amid Haussmanian rooftops. 1 Coulée verte René-Dumont, 75012 Paris


This former SNCF depot has been magicked into a sprawling playground of performance spaces, galleries, shops and food truck dining; its 1500m²  terrace is the coolest summer spot for a beer. Vintage train relics are cleverly repurposed throughout. 81 Rue du Charolais, 75012 Paris



This interdisciplinary art centre from the foundation behind Galeries Lafayette is a temple of exhibition spaces, creative labs and research into contemporary art and design, all in a 19th-century building restored by Rem Koolhaas. 9 Rue du Plâtre, 75004 Paris


Already exhausted the Eiffel Tower, wax museums and Planet Hollywoods of Paris? Pick up a copy of my book “Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide” (Rizzoli) which USA Today hails “Weiner’s charming watercolor of the city (and its food and wine) are the next best thing to hopping on a plane”. Available wherever books are sold, but preferably your local indie bookstore.


How to support artists this holiday season!


The holidays aren’t just about generosity, but also graciously supporting those who have created their own small businesses outside of flash sale capitalism. Here are a few tips on how to lend a hand this holiday season, some don’t even require spending money….

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In the same spirit, my Etsy shop is freshly updated just in time to pick the ideal gift for the Francophile in your life, including lots of new mix-and-match Paris prints, postcards and sticker packs. And of course, my book “Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide” (Rizzoli) can easily be tucked under your arm on your next trip to Paris or snugly into a stocking, purchased *preferably* at your favorite independent bookstore or on Amazon. If you have the book already, be a pal and leave a glowing Amazon review here. It really helps out a young author like myself.

Looking for a signed copy of “Paris in Stride” in Paris? I went on a Sharpie bender at Gagliani Bookstore 224 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris. Pick up a signed copy there.






How to not be a bonehead in Paris!

0 how to not be a bonehead in Paris _Jessie Kanelos Weiner

The khaki shorts, the socks hiked to the gods, puzzled eye contact, general clustering and moving in masses. Thanks for visiting Paris, tourists. We see you! Yes, we’d all love the superpower of fitting flawlessly into any destination, but no one can truly blend in on a hop on/hop off bus. Here are a few do’s and don’ts to prevent you from getting jumped for your Rick Steves money belt. -jkw

1 how to not be a bonehead in Paris _Jessie Kanelos Weiner


2 0 how to not be a bonehead in Paris _Jessie Kanelos Weiner


3 0 how to not be a bonehead in Paris _Jessie Kanelos Weiner


4 0 how to not be a bonehead in Paris _Jessie Kanelos Weiner


6 bonjour_jessie Kanelos Weiner



5 0 how to not be a bonehead in Paris _Jessie Kanelos Weiner


6 0 how to not be a bonehead in Paris _Jessie Kanelos Weiner


Order here.


Watercolor workshop_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

For me, food and art go hand in hand. Join me for a dynamic masterclass at French cooking school La Cuisine Paris, walking through my creative process, watercolor techniques and tricks for creating your own glorious works of art. Haven’t picked up a paintbrush since primary school? No fret, I will structure the event with a handful of drawing exercises to loosen everyone up, followed by timed pointers with pointers and prompts to get the creative juices flowing. All levels are welcome. Inspiration will be drawn from a gorgeous still life of fresh produce, flowers and Parisian objects.

Price of admission includes a palette with a selection of liquid Winsor & Newton watercolor paints, a paintbrush, pencil and watercolor paper. Participants are welcome to bring their own materials, too. Wine and nibbles are also included to keep the afternoon interesting.

Spots are going quickly, but book HERE

NOTE: Although this event is generously hosted by La Cuisine Paris, this is not a cooking class.


So you wanna be French? 5 tips on acquiring French nationality



Last week my name was called from a glass covered cubicle. I signed a sheet of paper. And I became French.  There was no pomp or circumstance.  I’ve heard expat urban legends of getting summoned to sing La Marseillaise on the spot. I prepped it just in case, but will need to dramatically perform my new battlefield vocabulary in the privacy of my own home.

It has been 10 years in the making mastering the French language on my own (thank you rosé!), starting a business in France and pushing myself to continually have an open heart and mind in this often dysfunctional, but still cherished adopted home of mine. I fully recognize the privileges that helped me along the way (being married to a French citizen, general white privilege, being American), but immigration is a long, tedious process for anyone.

I’ve compiled a list of some hard-earned tips to help expedite the long process of acquiring French nationality. I don’t get into precise logistics as it varies from Prefecture to Prefecture. But these are all things I wish I had a heads up on when I could only dream of living in France indefinitely.


1.) Integrate. In America, you can come and be who you are. But in France, you must become French.  Shortly after marrying my French spouse, when I began the official immigration process, I had to sign a contract committing to integrate in every way possible.  And the easiest way to do that is to learn the language. It expedites the process of creating a fulfilling life. And really commit to learning the culture (the cult films, the faux-pas, the ’80s French songs that get the crowd up and moving at house parties). I admit I’m much more prone to reading The New York Times than Le Monde, but it’s so easy to be information-isolated these days that it takes conscious effort to engage with the country where you’d like to invest your energy and life.


2.) Don’t throw anything away…ever! France still runs mostly on paper. My whole nationality process was set back for months by missing 1 electric bill from 2011 (Comment dit-on “Murphy’s law” en français?). It’s always the ONE paper that’s missing that you will need to complete your dossier.  It’s survival of the fittest so buy a 2-ring binder and keep everything as organized as humanly possible.

snail_thefrancofly.com3.) Phone a friend. Let’s face it, there’s a lot that even French people don’t understand about their own system. And a bureaucratic secret is that most anything can be negotiated. Find a generous friend or a French lover to help navigate the process.drapeau_thefrancofly.com4.) You’re not entitled to anything. One of the first lessons I learned in France was that I am no one. Sure, this sounds harsh to coddled Midwestern millennial ears, but nothing about me was inherently special when I moved here. I had no work experience, my diplomas were invalid and I answered yes and no questions with “OK!”. I had to build that up through time, creating a life and fully engaging. I’ve been working on my dossier for French nationality for over 2 years and started thinking that it was a competition of how badly I wanted it. Think of it as Survivor, but the challenges included eating headcheese and having the right amount of 10 centimes coins to print 100 A4 black and white photocopies at Monoprix.





5.) Have a sense of humor about the whole thing. Usually there’s a hot blooded guy screaming bloody murder at the Prefecture before being escorted out the place. It has a way of bringing out the worst of people, but a lot can be said for being punctual and polite. A good old-fashioned “Bonjour madame / Bonjour monsieur” can go a long way. Take some M&Ms and a good book to ward off any boredom or blood-sugar induced spectacles. At the end of the day, France attracts so many dreamers because of its Old World slow life charm. It runs on its own timeline so find a form of catharsis (start a blog, find expat friends & a bottle of wine) and submit to the process.

Vive la France! I’m celebrating my newfound double nationality by taking up smoking and becoming completely unapproachable (joke!).


P.S. Teaching my first summer intensive ‘experimental drawing’ at the Paris College of Art from June 11-22 2018. Spots are still available if you’re itching to discover Paris in a whole new way. More info here.




A Guide to Women in Food, Paris

Map vide_Jessie Kanelos Weiner_women owned businesses paris_Update 21-03-18.jpg

When developing the idea for my forthcoming book Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide (Rizzoli March 27) with my coauthor Sarah Moroz, the challenge was finding the sweet spot between creating a pragmatic walking guide and a beautifully evocative representation of the timeless city that keeps drawing back dreamers, artists and tourists alike. I would have loved to have dedicated an entire guided walk to all the amazing women in the restaurant scene who have trained in Paris and opened up some of the most unique food businesses in Paris over the last couple of years. And frankly, many have been on the forefront of some of the biggest dining trends: food trucks, vegan eateries and fast/casual spots. Instead I’ve compiled a growing shortlist of some of my favorites to support on your next trip to the City of Light.

Hønor & neighbours

Muscovado_jessie kanelos weiner

Muscovado 1 Rue Sedaine, 75011 Paris

17 Yam tcha_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

yam’Tcha 121 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris

Ellsworth_verjus_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Ellsworth 34 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris / Verjus 52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris

16 Chez Aline_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Chez Aline, 85 Rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris

Sur Mer_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Sur Mer 53 Rue de Lancry, 75010 Paris

15 Treize bakery_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Treize Bakery 16 Rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris

ZIA_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Zia 22 Avenue de Tourville, 75007 Paris

14 Ten Belles Bread_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Ten Belles Bread 17-19 Rue Breguet, 75011 Paris

Combat_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Combat 63 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris

Carbon_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Carbon 14 Rue Charlot, 75003 Paris13 Rachel's_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Rachel’s 25 Rue du Pont aux Choux, 75003 Paris

La Bete noir_Jessie Kanelos Weiner


La Bête Noire 58 Rue Henri Barbusse, 75005 Paris

12 Mokonuts_Jessie Kanelos Weiner_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Mokonuts 5 Rue Saint-Bernard, 75011 Paris

11 Le supercoin_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Le Supercoin 3 Rue Baudelique, 75018 Paris

10 Le Servan_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Le Servan 32 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris9 Le Camion Qui Fume_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Le Camion Qui Fume 168 Rue Montmartre, 75002 Paris 8 la guignette d'angele_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

La Guinguette d’Angele 2 Rue du Général Renault, 75011 Paris7 La buvette

La Buvette 67 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris6 Jean Hwang Carrant_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Jean Hwang Carrant 84 Rue d’Aboukir, 75002 Paris5 Jay & Joy_Jessie kanelos Weiner

Jay & Joy 5 Rue Paul Bert, 75011 Paris

4 Holy belly_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

HolyBelly 5 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010 Paris3 ETSI_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Etsi 23 Rue Eugène Carrière, 75018 Paris

2 Boneshaker_Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Boneshaker 77 Rue d’Aboukir, 75002 Paris

-Planning a trip to Paris soon or just dreaming of it? Preorder by book Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide (Rizzoli March 27th) with 7 guided walking tours to really explore the City of Light like a local. It’s as pragmatic as it is beautiful with over 150+ gorgeous watercolors of the timeless details that make Paris Paris.  Order here.

-Telerama just compiled a list of all the female chefs in France here breaking it down zip code by zip code.

-Have another amazing restaurant or business to add to the list? Send it to me at


Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide available for preorder. Paris in Stride: An Insider's Walking Guide. American in Paris watercolor illustrator. Paris architecture illustration. Paris green chairs. American in Paris watercolor illustrator. Paris map illustration.  Best Paris expat blogs. Paris 75006 guide. walking guide book Paris, shakespeare and company. Paris lamp post. Paris watercolor illustrations


I love traveling. The internet is great for scouting out places, but I always struggle with putting together an itinerary that’s concise, pragmatic and interesting enough to inspire meandering and really getting a sense of a city. But after living in Paris for almost 10 years, I’ve found a way to break down the city into one perfect little book... available for preorder. Paris in Stride: An Insider's Walking Guide. American in Paris watercolor illustrator. Paris architecture illustration. Paris green chairs. American in Paris watercolor illustrator. Paris map illustration.  Best Paris expat blogs. Paris 75006 guide. walking guide book Paris, shakespeare and company.


I’m thrilled to share with you my forthcoming book Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide, to be published by Rizzoli New York on March 27th, 2018.  I teamed up with Franco-American culture writer Sarah Moroz (Vogue, I-D, Another, The New York Times) and we walked every inch of Paris from twisty cobblestoned streets to wide boulevards, canals, and parks, and organized seven irresistible walking tours with over 150 vibrant watercolor illustrations—from maps and markets, wine bars, shops, cheeses, and oh-so-French signage to our favorite architecture, patisserie, and packaging. We make no claim that Paris in Stride is comprehensive—rather it is the personal take of two engaged, creative, spirited people with great taste packaged into a beautiful, cherishable object—exactly who you would want to show you around!

Paris in stride blurb_Jessie Kanelos Weiner Rizzoli

This is where you come in, dear reader. I’m writing to request that you preorder a copy today. I know you’re thinking, “I thought Amazon was the devil? Why should I bother preordering when I can buy it at my local independent bookstore?” First of all, I send you a hug of gratitude for fighting the good fight against Jeff Bezos. But these days, even before a book comes out, Amazon preorders estimate the overall success of a book, how often it will pop up in searches and ultimately how many copies will be sold. So it’s a small way to support an up-and-coming artist and author. available for preorder. Paris in Stride: An Insider's Walking Guide. American in Paris watercolor illustrator. Paris architecture illustraiton. Institut suédois Paris. Paris doors illustration. American in Paris watercolor illustrator. Architecture illustrator Paris. Blue door. Best Paris expat blogs.

So if you already dream of visiting Paris or if you’re already dying to go back, I hope you can take a quick second to preorder a copy today and take a moment to leave an Amazon review on March 27th.  In any case thank you kindly for your love and encouragement throughout the many years I have called this fabulous city my home. And I can’t wait till Paris in Stride officially introduces you to my Paris.

Paris in Stride: An Insider's Walking Guide (Rizzoli). Paris illustrated city guide. Eiffel tower illustration. Best Paris guides. Rizzoli New York Paris book. Rodin the Thinker illustration.


Preorder HERE. And I’ll be sure to update you soon about my US book tour and the behind the scenes of the making of Paris in Stride.